How to Talk About Perfume Like a Pro

Bewildered by base notes? Muddled by musk? Disorientated by dry down? Shopping for perfume can feel like looking at the wine list in a fancy restaurant – confusing, complicated and, dare I say, a little pretentious.

From sillage to gourmand, there are all kinds of complex-sounding words and phrases standing between you and your new signature scent. I might have even just lost you at “signature scent” – and if I have, it just means the perfume you wear all the time.

As with wine, the only important thing when trying to find the best perfume for you is that you like it. How you got to that decision doesn’t really matter. But, especially when shopping online for fragrance, it’s very tricky to work out what you like and don’t like, or whether something is worth the price, if you don’t understand the lingo.

So, with the help of two brilliant fragrance experts, let me be your perfume sommelier. I’ll talk you through the scent-specific terminology that’s been giving you a headache (it’s that or the heart notes) – and I won’t try to upsell you, promise.

Experts Featured in This Article

Raquel Bouris founded the modern fragrance brand Who is Elijah in 2018 from Sydney, Australia, aiming to bottle the city’s vibrancy.

Alex Oprey is the Chief Commercial Officer and all-round perfume pro at the luxury British fragrance brand Miller Harris.

What Is the Difference Between Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette?

Let’s kick off with the basics. If you’ve been browsing perfumes then you’ve probably already noticed that Eau de Parfums (that’s EDP for short) are more expensive than Eau de Toilettes (or EDTs). The key reason is actually simple. “Eau de Parfum has a higher concentration of fragrance oils, meaning it lasts longer, develops more complexity and leaves a stronger impression,” explains Raquel Bouris, founder of fine fragrance brand Who is Elijah.

In short, you get more bang and that’s why it’s more buck. That’s not to say Eau de Toilette is just Eau de Parfum’s cheaper cousin though. There’s a time and a place for both. “Eau de Toilette is lighter, fresher and more fleeting – ideal for more subtle, everyday wear,” adds Bouris.

What Do Top, Heart and Base Notes All Mean?

Most fragrances have different layers to them that appear and disappear over time. The top notes are your “first impression”, explains Bouris. “They’re bright, fresh and fleeting, pulling you in but disappearing quickly.” Think of it as your first date – you might be impressed but need to know more before committing, which brings us to heart notes. “These are the essence,” continues Bouris. “They define the fragrance’s personality and last longer than the top notes.” Ok, so far so good, we’ve been on some more dates, met each other’s friends and maybe even accidentally dropped an L-bomb. The final stage though is base notes – where things get serious. Raquel says that these “are the foundation. They’re deep, warm and lingering and are what stays on our skin for hours.”

Normally you’ll find that top notes are light, so something like herbs or citrus, heart notes are floral or spicy, and base notes are things like wood or musk. It’s worth saying though that not all fragrances follow this traditional structure. “It’s not always the case in the world of luxury perfumery,” explains Alex Oprey, fragrance expert at luxe perfume brand Miller Harris. “Some niche and luxury creations are crafted with a more linear composition, where the scent remains constant, offering a bold and immediate olfactory experience.” To debunk another term here for good measure, olfactory is a fancy way of saying relating to your sense of smell.

What Does Dry Down Mean?

“The dry down is the final stage of a fragrance – the notes that linger on your skin for hours,” explains Bouris. “It’s where the deeper, more intimate notes settle, becoming the scent that people remember.” This is why it’s so important to give a perfume tester a couple of hours to settle before deciding. If you commit on the first spritz, you might be disappointed later.

What Does Sillage Mean?

You know when someone wafts into a room in a cloud of scent or you can still smell their perfume when they leave? That’s sillage. “It’s the movement of a fragrance – the invisible trail of perfume that lingers in the air as you pass,” says Oprey. “It’s not just about how a fragrance smells up close but how it leaves a lasting impression behind.” How much sillage a perfume has will depend on the notes and its intensity. Skin scents for example, which are designed to be smelt up close rather than from afar, only have subtle sillage.

What Are Fragrance Families?

“Fragrance families categorise perfumes based on their key notes and overall mood,” advises Oprey. If you know what fragrance family you like best, shopping for perfume will suddenly become infinitely easier.

There are lots of different fragrance families, but the main players are:

What Is a Gourmand Fragrance?

Gourmand scents are the pudding of the fragrance world. “A gourmand fragrance evokes sweet and edible scents,” explains Oprey. “These perfumes typically feature rich, dessert-inspired notes like vanilla, caramel, and chocolate, creating an indulgent effect. Perfumers often combine these with more complex undertones, such as spices, coffee, or nuts, to add depth and warmth to the overall scent.” Because they’re so intense, gourmand scents are better suited to evening than day.

What Is Musk?

Musk is a substance used in perfumery to give scents depth and staying power. It was traditionally sourced from a particular type of deer, but thankfully that’s no longer the case and perfumers use synthetic versions. It’s tricky to put your finger on exactly what musk smells like, and there are different versions, but scents that contain it are normally on the heavier and more intense side.

What Is Oud?

Oud is a resin which is created when a specific fungus takes over the Aquilaria tree – a plant native to Southeast Asia. It’s an incredibly rich, warm and woody scent and is used to give perfumes more depth. Oud is expensive to source, so you’ll pay a premium for a fragrance that contains it.