Dermalogica Age Smart Super Rich Repair, $93.50
Stockists: Adore Beauty
POPSUGAR Australia: What are peptides?
Emma Hobson: Peptides occur naturally in the body but the ones used in skincare are made in the laboratory and so are synthetic. Like proteins, peptides are comprised of amino acids. There are only 20 different amino acids in the human body, but it’s the different combinations and sequences of amino acids that make the various complex protein chains. If you change the sequence of the amino acids, you also change the function of the protein or peptide they belong to. All peptides influence or direct the cells of the body in some way. Different types of peptides influence different types of cells.
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide has five amino acids
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide has four amino acids
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide has three amino acids
- ARG-LYS Polypeptide more than 20 amino acids
- Acetyl Tetrapeptide 15 has four amino acids
When a chain of amino acids is over 100 acids long, it is usually called a protein, when it contains less than 100 amino acids in the chain it is a peptide.
PS: Why do we need them, what do they do in skincare and why do they work when applied topically?
EH: Peptides are able to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. They communicate with and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way, we use them in skincare to help promote a healthier skin.
They can do this as they have the ability to penetrate the skin and send ‘signals’ to your cells that tell them how to function — Peptides are used for producing and stimulating more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, reducing melanin formation (therefore reducing hyperpigmentation) and stopping the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products or AGEs. They also improve wound and cell repair and reduce neurogenic inflammation, which means they helps prevent and target premature ageing of the skin.
PS: Which are the best peptides to look out for?
EH: There are so many variations of protein peptides — some effective and some not so effective. I would recommend the use of any of the following; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-5, 7 and 38, Olgiopeptide 34 and 51, Arginine/lysine Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Hexpeptide-14, ARG-LYS, Acetyl Tetrapeptide -15polypeptide, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-2 and Palmitoyl Dipeptide- 5.
- ARG-LYS polypeptide: acts like sugar trap, so is excellent at addressing ageing skin concerns.
- Oligopeptide-34 and 51: helps control melanogenesis and therefore is fantastic for pigmentation.
- Acetyl Tetrapeptide -15: is a peptide that targets sensitive skin by lowering pro-inflammatory mediators to reduce sensations of discomfort and pain.
- Palmitoyl Dipeptide-2: helps to reduce puffy & dark circles around the eyes
- Palmitoyl Dipeptide- 5: helps to stimulate collagen production, giving great anti-ageing effects.
PS: When it comes to peptide percentages, is higher better?
EH: Since every peptide is different, not only in action but also in cost and understanding, percentages in a formula are really irrelevant when trying to compare one product to another. It’s essential you use a brand you can trust, one that formulates with integrity, promises to deliver (realistic) results, and has a money back guarantee.