Mia Vesper, Victor Glemaud, and Sergio Hudson Tell Us the Inspiration Behind Their Fashion Week Shows
For fashion-lovers, one of the most exciting and long-awaited times of the year happens every fall: Fashion Month. Eye-catching street style is everywhere. Celebrities are showing off their finest couture. This is when you get legendary wardrobe moments from the likes of Lori Harvey, Emily Ratajkowski, and new parents Rihanna and A$AP Rocky. This year, the month kicked off with New York Fashion Week, which was only the second in-person spring/summer season since before the coronavirus pandemic began. This season’s designers and street style stars delivered serious sartorial inspiration, demonstrating a newfound sense of excitement for the fashion season and dressing up to go out. The many runways were filled with creative interpretations of color and texture, like at Simon Miller’s presentation, which boasted cutout dresses with an unexpected take on fringe.
During the spring/summer 2023 season, designers pushed the boundaries with playful presentations and lush locations. Take, for instance, Collina Strada, who invited attendees to a vibrant, plant-filled escape at the Brooklyn Greenway, where she went on to showcase a butterfly-inspired collection. There was also Love Shack Fancy, which created a lively outdoor party and presented a collection full of tulle, pink hues, and ball gowns at the Cooper Hewitt Museum. One factor that switched up this season? Established designers like Marni and Fendi, which usually show in Milan Fashion Week, decided to venture across the Atlantic to show in New York City instead.
From household names like Kate Spade and Christian Siriano to revolutionary designers like Fe Noel and Victor Glemaud, keep scrolling for all the designers who brought to life their creative visions for warm-weather dressing in the new year.
Mia Vesper Spring/Summer 2023
Widely known for creating a custom gown for Beyoncé in her “Black is King” film, Mia Vesper made her official debut at New York Fashion Week with a “Magic Show” presentation, featuring upcycled textiles and exotic prints. The affair marked her comeback presentation after a season off.
“This collection is a magical museum, like an enchanted closet,” Vesper tells POPSUGAR. “These are clothes people make memories in. Ordinary days turn into extraordinarily ones. The right clothing is everyday magic.”
Simon Miller Spring/Summer 2023
Simon Miller embodies playful luxury. This season, creative director Chelsea Hansford transported attendees to a colorful escape called “Candy Village” on Simon Miller Island, which featured bold prints, textures, and interactive art installations by the sculptor Leonard Urso.
“I was inspired by the textures of natural candies of the tropics, from the texture of coconut flakes, sugar coated jellies and the swirls of taffy,” Hansford says. “I wanted to transport guests to ‘Candy Village’ where the clothes are candy, and the candies are clothes.”
Black Boy Knits Spring/Summer 2023
Jacques Agbobly, CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist and founder of Black Boy Knits, took viewers on a nostalgic journey to his childhood in Togo, West Africa through his spring/summer 2023 collection entitled “Togo Vivina.” Inspired by his childhood memories and humble upbringing, the emerging designer featured handmade pieces including the brand’s signature knitwear made of merino wool and structural denim embellished with beads.
“I want people to start looking at clothes differently,” Agbobly says. “I want them to be encouraged to show up fully as themselves – have the clothes elevate what was already there or bring out what was already there. I want people to feel love and feel like they’re wearing a hug.”
Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2023
An intimate showing at the Elizabeth Taylor Townhouse, Christian Siriano’s latest collection featured exciting shapes and captivating silhouettes, drawing inspiration from the glamorous old Hollywood style icons like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor.
“I wanted to do something that our customer will be excited about right now as well as stand the test of time,” Siriano says. “So my hope is that the collection transports you to a different time and helps you channel your inner style icon.”
Kate Spade New York Spring/Summer 2023
Marking the debut of Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu as the new head product designers for Kate Spade, the presentation was an ode to the visual beauty of the spring season. It was also a tribute to the brand’s upcoming 30th anniversary in 2023. Including eccentric stripes and rain motifs in 100% recycled materials, the collection created a playful experience at its presentation, where stars like Regina Hall and Rebel Wilson were in attendance.
LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2023
In line with last year’s unconventional show location at the Empire State Building, LaQuan Smith invited guests to the Intrepid Sea, Space, & Air Museum to view a collection bursting with colors and movement. It was also the first presentation of daytime wear for the brand.
“I took a trip this summer to Morocco and was completely inspired by the weather and the rich colors in the spice market,” Smith said of the collection. “The collection also has many elements of eroticism and [it’s] poetic and romantic.”
Bronx and Banco Spring/Summer 2023
Natalie De-Banco presented another fabulous runway show at the Hudson River Greenway that was entitled, “Burnt by the Sun.” De-Banco, an advocate for nature preservation and animal welfare, drew inspiration from wildlife safaris for this latest collection. The pieces featured bright colors and silhouettes comprised of nontraditional materials like handmade fabrics and recycled metals, as well as menswear for the first time ever.
No Sesso Spring/Summer 2023
Titled “SESSO,” No Sesso’s spring collection explored the darker side of founders’ Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph’s work, an aesthetic that Randolph previously coined as “Black Punk.” Comprised of minimalist looks complete with edgy accessories and silhouettes, the collection also features “the Metal Pearl Set” created in collaboration with Je Blanc.
Fe Noel Spring/Summer 2023
After recently losing a loved one, designer Felisha Noel’s channeled her grief into the memorable “Wish You Were Here” collection that explored the journey of a woman’s emotion. The stunning presentation featured floor-sweeping silhouettes and vibrant colorways. The show closed with a jaw-dropping finale dress decorated with money disguised as ruffles, marking Noel’s partnership with TIAA. The design aimed to bring awareness to and close the 30% gap in women and men’s retirement income.
Sergio Hudson Collection 10
Inspired by the confidence and artistry of Prince and The New Power Generation, Sergio Hudson showed his “Collection 10,” which was full of bold prints, intense color-blocking, and exquisite tailoring. And in yet another collaboration with Malone Souliers, the collection featured footwear to match each look.
“I wanted to do something that was beautiful, bold, and overtly glamorous and sexy, while still maintaining a clean and modern feel,” said Hudson of the new line.
Area Collection 04
Once again, Area makes it clear that there are no rules when it comes to fashion. Its latest offering featured striking and conspicuous silhouettes in this season’s Collection 04: Tetrahedron. Exploring the concept of ancient architecture and worship, the boundary-pushing brand presented pieces with outlandish shapes, construction, and embellishments. The collection is now available for purchase online at Area.
Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2023
Carolina Herrera’s spring/summer 2023 collection was filled with dramatic silhouettes, romantic prints, and rich textures, all inspired by creative director Wes Gordon’s favorite childhood book, “The Secret Garden” by Frances Hodgson Burnett. From oversized balloon sleeves in hand-painted tea roses and peonies and stripes paired with taffeta ball skirts, the collection is intensely romantic and reflects the timeless American glamour of Bunny Mellon, a prominent gardener.
Victor Glemaud Spring/Summer 2023
Designer Victor Glemaud put on display his latest collection at the Rink at Rockefeller Center. He drew inspiration from great American sportswear trailblazers like Bill Blass and Giorgio Sant’Angelo. He was also inspired by the pink, baby blue, and white hues of Harbour Island, Bahamas, where the innovative designer recently visited during a trip.
“Spring allows one to exhale and brings joy,” Glemaud says of his new collection. “I want every look, every element of this collection and show, to bring a smile to your face.”
Brandon Maxwell Spring/Summer 2023
Held at the iconic New York auction house Christie’s, Brandon Maxwell invites attendees into a glamorous nightclub escape from the city to view the spring/summer 2023 collection, befitting for Maxwell who his known for his party wear. The collection is centered around the inviting lavender hues and features sleek textures and prints, like sequins and florals.
L'AGENCE Spring/Summer 2023
L’AGENCE presented its spring/summer 2023 collection at the legendary Boom Boom Room at The Standard, High Line. It featured rich saturated hues, structured tailoring, and attractive silhouettes, setting the tone for next spring.
“Dramatic pop colors, romantic shades of neutrals, new denim shapes and tailored feminine suiting have our woman looking beautiful and feeling confident,” said the brand’s fashion director, Tara Rudes.
Lionne Clothing Collection 002
Lionne’s Collection 002 marked founder LaToia Fitzgerald’s official New York Fashion Week debut, taking viewers through a nostalgic journey that paid homage to musical legends and stylists she was influenced by in her youth, including Lil Kim, Aaliyah, and Misa Hylton. From structural denim to cultural accessories like gold bamboo earrings, the nostalgic influences – combined with the work of stylist Jan-Michael Quammie – elevated the brand’s mission of creating pieces for the strong and self-assured woman.
Private Policy Spring/Summer 2023
In line with previous projects examining the relationship between humans and animals, Private Policy took attendees to an imaginative escape at the Firehouse Engine 31 building entitled “Noah’s Ark,” a collection representing the journey to peace, love, and freedom. From utilitarian and ocean-inspired net material pieces to shimmering sequins resembling the shining night water, the collection explored airy dimensions and silhouettes, complete with handmade accessories made of natural-mottled dove feathers – reflecting the dove on the ark.
Collina Strada Spring/Summer 2023
Collina Strada presented its “GOT MILKWEED?” collection, taking viewers through the journey from ragged beginnings as a caterpillar to a blossoming butterfly through clothes. The presentation debuted at Brooklyn Greenway, a former cemetery turned monarch butterfly preserve that uses local, intentional flora – including milkweed, hence the show’s theme. Models strutted through the garden in captivating designs like floaty gowns made of sustainable materials including deadstock denim and satin and orange fiber organza, as well as accessories in collaboration with shoe brand Melissa.
Veronica Beard Spring/Summer 2023
From color theory and versatile suiting, Veronica Beard’s spring/summer 2023 collection incorporated a reimagining of the brand’s signature dickey jacket, as well as heavy embroidery and sequin embellishments. The effervescent collection presented functional, yet stylish pieces for the everyday woman to enjoy, staying true to the brand’s mantra of “looking good, feeling good, and doing good.”
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2023
The Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2023 collection featured bright colors and eccentric textures, including elasticated terry tweed, glossy techno leather, molded lace, and metallic hand crotchet molded into knitwear that plays into the brand’s signature body contouring designs. Water was the main character in the show, which played up elements of the designers’ personal histories – Jack McCollough’s all-American background and Lazaro Hernandez’s Latinx heritage.
Rebecca Minkoff Spring/Summer 2023
For her spring/summer 2023 collection, Rebecca Minkoff invited viewers to an otherworldly, immersive technological experience at Lavan 541. There, the all-white collection showcased tailored streetwear and refreshed denim silhouettes embellished in the brand’s signature iconography – punk studs, curb chains and crystals, and handbags complete with studded guitar straps and oversized curb link handles.
Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2023
In his second year returning to New York Fashion Week, Joseph Altuzarra explored the lure of the desert in his spring/summer 2023 collection. One noteworthy moment was the return of the brand’s signature parka, reimagined in a cocooning silhouette. There were also colorful patterned skirt sets, and the runway looks were complete with many ’90s- and early ’00s-inspired accessories, including the brand’s first weekender canvas bag.
3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2023
Phillip Lim further explored the off-duty work look in his spring 2023 collection, featuring reworked denim that was a nod to the early ’90s. From the romantic satin material to pieces consisting of 100% recycled fabric, it was a stylish sight that also had sustainability in mind. This knee-length skirt and top set exemplified the brand’s signature relaxed vibe.
alice + olivia Spring/Summer 2023
alice + olivia’s Stacey Bendet created an interactive getaway called “House of Alice + Olivia” to showcase her spring/summer 2023 designs. In the wonderland fantasy home, you would journey from one boldly decorated room to another with equally vibrant designs to match. From denim power suits embellished with bedazzled fringes to color blocking rooms featuring dramatic, colorful gowns, the presentation’s foundation is based on Bendet’s goal to make women’s pieces more fun and lively.
Peter Do Spring/Summer 2023
For the first time ever, Peter Do introduced his highly anticipated men’s line in this season’s “TIME” collection, using K-pop stars as models in partnership with Korea’s largest entertainment company, SM Entertainment. Motivated by the future of K-pop and fashion, the presentation featured silhouettes like sleek tailoring on the skirts and blazers, as well as men’s looks that consist of languid silk blouses and classic denim.
Jonathan Simkhai Spring/Summer 2023
Highly known for his slip dresses and romantic dresses, Jonathan Simkhai’s his amber-centered spring/summer 2023 collection incorporated silhouettes with cut-outs, earthy colors, crystal embroidery and eccentric hemlines. These pieces are for those looking to make their everyday wardrobe a bit more visually interesting and unexpected.
Maisie Wilen Spring/Summer 2023
Maisie Wilen’s spring/summer 2023 collection was inspired by the special effects techniques used in filmmaking. The result? A hyper-digital aesthetic that consisted of gowns and motion-capture marker printed pieces, all set against a green screen backdrop. Wilen also introduced its first men’s collection, which included shorts, ties, and sweaters.
Pamella Roland Spring/Summer 2023
In celebration of the brand’s 20th anniversary and drawing inspiration from her beginnings in NYC, the Pamella Roland spring/summer 2023 collection was bursting with bold colors and signature ombrés in hues of emerald, cobalt, amethyst and fuchsia. Luxurious fabrics and intricate hand embroideries also marked this latest lineup from Roland. From dramatic capes and sleeves to signature ballgowns, the collection embodied the brand’s command of timeless elegance.
Tanya Taylor Spring/Summer 2023
As Tanya Taylor approaches a milestone year, the focus of spring 2023 for the fashionista favorite is all about spontaneity and freedom. With fashion ever-evolving, the brand’s newest collection presented unexpected, yet sophisticated ensembles with nuanced color combinations, commanding neutrals, and abstract layering.
Autumn Adeigbo Spring/Summer 2023
Autumn Adeigbo’s spring/summer 2023 collection embodied the vibrant essence of the new season with a modern approach to vintage silhouettes. It also incorporated several sartorial nods to the iconic Y2K era. The designs featured playful takes on the physical world around us, and experimented with details like femme daisy prints, interesting florals, and ombré sunset elements.
Dauphinette Spring/Summer 2023
Known for her unique outerwear and sustainable fabrics, designer Olivia Cheng allowed viewers to join her on a journey of finding solace through art. With Dauphinette’s “Fragile” spring/summer collection, attendees saw a presentation marked by sculptural, armor-like pieces. These were made using nontraditional materials typically found in the forest or the kitchen, including a skirt constructed out of 400 real eggshells and handbags made of emu eggs.
Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2023
Tory Burch used Pier 76 as the setting for her show, where she debuted a collection filled with clean lines and pieces inspired by her life in the ’90s. The luxurious fabrics – such as the superfine knits, techno satin, weightless jerseys – moved with the body, and the neon hued accessories made the visual contrast on the runway that much more striking.
Michael Kors Collection
Michael Kors created a jungle escape in the middle of NYC’s Meatpacking District to view his spring/summer 2023 collection, which included silhouettes with plunging necklines, low-rise cuts, and attention-grabbing colors like turquoise and lime. Attracting a noteworthy front row with attendees like Anna Wintour, Lori Harvey, and Serena Williams, the established designer presented a collection that celebrated the marriage of the city and nature as well as the female physique.
LAPOINTE Spring/Summer 2023
Known for her strong and evocative color palettes, designer Sally LaPointe explored the idea of color even more with her spring ’23 collection. Cropped silhouettes and bold hues – such as neon purple, sea green, and tangerine – were markers of this particular offering. “I challenged myself to think about an elevated agility in all my pieces,” LaPointe says.
Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2023
The last and final show of New York Fashion Week, Tom Ford drew attendees to an all-metallic runway where models sported big hair and metallic-infused ensembles, which further played into the budding house disco trend. Supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid graced the runway in sequined gowns with high-slits – one copper and the other two-tone green and blue – for the extravagant NYFW finale.
Retrofête Spring/Summer 2023
Ohad Seroya and Aviad Klin of Retrofête presented an array of glamorous and statement-making pieces in their latest collection. The many daring silhouettes have elements like hip-high slits and striking textures like sequins and feathers. In line with its well-established party aesthetic and influenced by Seroya’s jet-setting travels, the collection is ideal for anyone who’s confident, fashion-forward, and ready to have a fun, memorable time.
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2023
Simone Rocha’s spring/summer 2023 collection was filled with unpredictable silhouettes and inviting fabrics. The voluminous pieces had several standout details, such as deconstructed satin bombers and tulle headpieces. According to the brand, the collection reflected the healing process that a new season tends to bring and was inspired by the physical world around us.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2023
Titled “Born To Rewild,” Vivienne Westwood’s latest collection approached spring apparel with cotton underwear, embroidered denim, formal fil-coupes, and pin-stripe jacquard suiting. Flower blocking with new and archive floral prints delivered an unexpected clashing moment that still worked. The inspiration behind the collection was the concept of rewilding, which is the restoration of damaged ecosystems.
Zimmermann Spring/Summer 2023
The Sydney-based label made its Paris Fashion Week debut with a host of printed looks that incorporated a mix of textures, from sleek metallics to lightweight silk. Titled “Wonderland,” the collection is partly an homage to where the brand’s founder, Nicky Zimmermann, grew up in Sydney, where there was once an old rollercoaster in the early 1900s. Zimmermann referenced archival photos as part of her design process.